Hardbody & Stickbait Lure Finish

[61 crusher]

Lures always look great out of the packet when new & once you start using them hooks, fish & the enviroment (rocks etc) tend to degrade the finish.

I know  chips, scratch’s & teeth marks are inevitable. On the quality priced ones it can take a bit longer than some of the cheapies. I’m curious to hear as to what others have done or tried to combat this? A fellow fisho suggested using a 2 part rod epoxy finish which I believe is a good product & he has used it with success to add life to a lures finish 

Any thoughts or ideas that anyone has would be appreciated 

Edited February 19, 2020 by 61 crusher

[anthman]

Sounds like a good idea, id becareful to put only a thin layer has not to throw off the weight distribution. 

[PaddyT]

why bother as long as the lure swims properly and hard plastic lures are much more resistant to damage than timber (hence why i prefer Halco Laser pros for macks and wahoo). This is the first red head one i bought at least 18 years ago-somehow it wont die-its caught about 10 spannies, a couple of yellowfin , a few longtails, a wahoo, countless macktuna and a few kings. Never been touched.

[PaddyT]

And this is a micro mullet thats caught over 100 flatties , a few choppers and a few bream-still catching

[PaddyT]

And last but not least i still have an original Cotton Cordell Pencil popper with a stack of kings, and 4 longtails to its name-its 30 years old. Im reluctant to swim it as it was also the first one i bought-sorry photo wont load .

[wazatherfisherman]

Hi Dieter only problem with using epoxy or Araldite is as Anthman pointed out, keeping balance. When using that particular brand (or any really) you need to keep revolving the "painted" item so that you don't get a "drip-lump" which will bugger the swimming action. Having said that though, I've used Araldite painted on with a disposable brush and the old "Superflex Secret Formula" epoxy also. You need to heat it with a hair dryer after mixing to get it really runny and 'disolve' bubbles. I only ever do it to seal paint where it's going to keep coming off and I have a rod lathe with 2 motors, 1 of which is a "dryer" that just revolves really slowly to prevent drip formation, it'd be a hassle otherwise as often when it's humid these coatings absorb moisture and take ages (sometimes 2-3 days to go "off") regardless of careful mixing and application. If you try it, do it on a nice dry hot day.

Have also tried Anti-graffiti coating to try and seal colour in some minnows I made up from lure blanks, but that was a big failure. Tried "Clear Floor" isocyanate free timber floor coating as well,(had some left after pulling up carpets and sanding/painting floor) which is thin and dries quickly, however didn't last long on plastic bodies. Other thing is that you need to be careful of is some of the paint/patterns on hard-body lures can get eaten by modern epoxies, so just a touch up with permanent metallic markers is often a better option, as is PaddyT's suggestion of using as is.

Regards Waza

[61 crusher]

Thanks @anthman re applying thin layer. I hear you @PaddyT if it ain’t broke don’t fix it (only cosmetic) the old halco lazer pro in Qantas colour has some good battle scares great lure for pelagics, the micro mullet one of the best for flatties & of course the old cordell pencil popper became a bit of a legend just as they were hard to come by here in Oz. @wazatherfisherman I’m glad you tagged in on  this thread because of your knowledge base, thanks for the in depth info in hindsight I’m glad I never purchased the product because I wouldn’t have been able to get a balanced finish

Thanks again Waza & Co

Edited February 20, 2020 by 61 crusher