Metal Fuel Tank Repair

[kingfishbig]

It should really be welded though. The epoxy putty is a temporary measure at best. There is a strong chance the fuel will eventually seep out. Vapours will collect in low places and are very volatile when mixed with air. If you have gone to the trouble of ripping up the floor you might as well go the whole hog and do a permanent repair.

[zmk1962]

Thanks @kingfishbig. Floor comes up pretty easy (its half a dozen stainless screws). Handling or even transporting a metal fuel tank that measures 2300x545x195mm is not easy especially when it is still full of fuel.  Further up in the post I have pretty well explained the reason why I did not go down the weld repair path.

The product I used was specifically designed and sold for permanent metal fuel tank repairs - it is not like the metal epoxy you may be familiar with - the Permatex fuel tank repair bonds to metal still wet with gasoline/fuel. It's sold as a permanent fix - not a temporary measure. I posted details here so that other's may be aware of this option in case they have a similar issue. 

However, if you have had specific experience where this product has failed then please share - my neighbour has used it on his farm and only had positive things to say - but if you know of other experiences please tell.

Otherwise we each have to make up our own mind as to how best make repair with the options we have at hand.

Cheers Zoran

[kingfishbig]

4 minutes ago, zmk1962 said:

Thanks @kingfishbig. Floor comes up pretty easy (its half a dozen stainless screws). Handling or even transporting a metal fuel tank that measures 2300x545x195mm is not easy especially when it is still full of fuel.  Further up in the post I have pretty well explained the reason why I did not go down the weld repair path.

The product I used was specifically designed and sold for permanent metal fuel tank repairs - it is not like the metal epoxy you may be familiar with - the Permatex fuel tank repair bonds to metal still wet with gasoline/fuel. It's sold as a permanent fix - not a temporary measure. I posted details here so that other's may be aware of this option in case they have a similar issue. 

However, if you have had specific experience where this product has failed then please share - my neighbour has used it on his farm and only had positive things to say - but if you know of other experiences please tell.

Otherwise we each have to make up our own mind as to how best make repair with the options we have at hand.

Cheers Zoran

It's good you have access to it (on some boats the tanks are glassed in). It would be a good idea then to keep an eye on it regularly. I don't any quams about using it on cars, motocycles etc, just wary about boats where there is a chance for vapours to collect. Interestingly their offical blurb doesn't mention boats in the list of recommended uses:

Automobile

Suggested Applications: Ideal for cars, light trucks and commercial vehicles; portable metal fuel tanks, and metal car fuel tanks.

Heavy Duty

Suggested Applications: Ideal for cars, light trucks and commercial vehicles; portable metal fuel tanks, metal car fuel tanks

 

[zmk1962]

Mate, it helps if you post the link where you copied that information from. Permatex offers two solutions, one is the epoxy putty stick (that I used), the other is a kit which comprises of fibreglass cloth, and the permatex epoxy that you paint over it. So I am not sure if you are referencing the data for the kit or the stick. 

Here is what is listed for the epoxy stick:

Product Details
Permatex Fuel Tank Repair is a new, industrial strength formulation that is highly resistant to ethanol that is found in many fuel types. Use to make permanent repairs on fuel tanks and gas cans. No tank removal required.
Instructions:
1. To achieve optimum adhesion, clean grease or dirt off surfaces to be repaired.
2. Wearing gloves twist or cut off required amount.
3. Mix by kneading epoxy stick to a uniform color. If mixing is difficult, warm epoxy stick to room temperature or slightly above.
4. Apply to the repair surface within 30 minutes of mixing, forcing into any cracks or holes to be filled. Remove excess material with a tool moistened with clean water before hardening begins. NOTE: When applying to a damp, wet or slowly leaking area, work the mixed epoxy into the surface and apply pressure until adhesion begins to take effect. Fuel Tank Repair epoxy sets in 1 hour, can be machined in 5 hours, and fully cures in 24 hours. Does not adhere to polyethylene or polypropylene plastics. This material is not intended for structural bonding.

https://www.autobarn.com.au/permatex-fuel-tank-repair-stick

And at the Permatex site as well: No reference to any restriction to just automobile use.

https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair/

Cheers Z

[kingfishbig]

Here it is - you will see an application bar down the page. I didn't say boats were ruled out, just that they weren't explicently mentioned.

 

https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair-kit/

[zmk1962]

6 minutes ago, kingfishbig said:

Here it is - you will see an application bar down the page. I didn't say boats were ruled out, just that they weren't explicently mentioned.

 

https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-fuel-tank-repair-kit/

Yup... Thats NOT the stuff I used. Thats the kit with fibreglass cloth and epoxy. 

Cheers Z

[wrxhoon1]

That looks  a bit younger than my old Signature 2250  (1986 model) going by the Merc, about early 90's I would think. Nice looking boat though. Is the hardtop a custom job?

We mostly go out weekdays , if you go out weekdays too PM next time you go out wide. Tuna should be around soon, as long as the current restrictions ease we will be out.

[dunc333]

hi guys we had a underfloor original  tank go in a quintrex 2003 model ali last year always trailered. .fuel in bilge ,water in fuel etc .when we got tank out we put compressed air in it and it declared un fixable leaking like a sive just tiny rusted pinholes everywhere .owner did use e10 but electrolisis more likely the culprit we think as no duralac used with screws and brackets in factory fitout of tank and bouancy foam hard up against tank holding moisture .so if you have a old quinee check your tank out cheers dunc333

Edited April 22, 2020 by dunc333

[kingfishbig]

21 minutes ago, dunc333 said:

hi guys we had a underfloor original  tank go in a quintrex 2003 model ali last year always trailered. .fuel in bilge ,water in fuel etc .when we got tank out we put compressed air in it and it declared un fixable leaking like a sive just tiny rusted pinholes everywhere .owner did use e10 but electrolisis more likely the culprit we think as no duralac used with screws and brackets in factory fitout of tank and bouancy foam hard up against tank holding moisture .so if you have a old quinee check your tank out cheers dunc333

17 years is not too bad to get out of an alloy tank. I went through the same issue. Bilge water runs through my fuel tank compartment. I got one of the Sant Marine plastic tanks and installed it myself. No chance of corrosion now. I lost a bit of volume as they are not custom made but it was half the price of getting a new one welded up. PS: electrolysis is the result of a stray current. Galvanic corrosion is the result of dissimilar metals being in contact.   

[dunc333]

well galvonic corrosion it is .anyway the shape of tank to fit the miliumum we had to either order a new one from telwater or get a custom made .custom made was $400 cheaper so thats how it was repaired  cheers dunc333

[dunc333]

just to add the original tank was stainless made of low grade 316 from china .

[zmk1962]

6 hours ago, wrxhoon1 said:

That looks  a bit younger than my old Signature 2250  (1986 model) going by the Merc, about early 90's I would think. Nice looking boat though. Is the hardtop a custom job?

We mostly go out weekdays , if you go out weekdays too PM next time you go out wide. Tuna should be around soon, as long as the current restrictions ease we will be out.

Hull 1992, I purchased the rig in 1996, installed the 200 EFI Merc  new in 1999.  Thanks for comment re boat - its in a different league to yours but does everything I ask of it. Yes, hardtop is custom - It's made a huge difference to comfort and seaworthiness.

I am semi retired so weekdays are the go for me unless I can't raise a crew then its weekends. I'm seriously considering a 4st upgrade now (Maria has already said yes) ... if I do that my sums are saying I'll have nearly 2x range so would be great to tag along, until then Brown's is my firm limit ... will definitely PM before my next sesh out wide. Thanks.  When out I sit on VHF 16,  BARRYCUDA or SY404 (Sierra Yankee 404) .. that's me !

Cheers Z

Edited April 22, 2020 by zmk1962

[zmk1962]

1 hour ago, dunc333 said:

hi guys we had a underfloor original  tank go in a quintrex 2003 model ali last year always trailered. .fuel in bilge ,water in fuel etc .when we got tank out we put compressed air in it and it declared un fixable leaking like a sive just tiny rusted pinholes everywhere .owner did use e10 but electrolisis more likely the culprit we think as no duralac used with screws and brackets in factory fitout of tank and bouancy foam hard up against tank holding moisture .so if you have a old quinee check your tank out cheers dunc333

Great addition to this topic. Thanks @dunc333! My original 220L marine alloy tank lasted 21yrs before it got the cheesecloth perforations that rendered it unfixable. I installed the replacement 250L tank in 2013. The tank sits in a fibreglass well, no electrolysis or galvanic corrosion, but does get occasional salt and fresh water seeping around it. You just have to stay vigilant and then choose the repair method that best suits - replace, repair etc.

BOAT - bring out another thousand!

Cheers Zoran

[wrxhoon1]

22 hours ago, zmk1962 said:

Hull 1992, I purchased the rig in 1996, installed the 200 EFI Merc  new in 1999.  Thanks for comment re boat - its in a different league to yours but does everything I ask of it. Yes, hardtop is custom - It's made a huge difference to comfort and seaworthiness.

I am semi retired so weekdays are the go for me unless I can't raise a crew then its weekends. I'm seriously considering a 4st upgrade now (Maria has already said yes) ... if I do that my sums are saying I'll have nearly 2x range so would be great to tag along, until then Brown's is my firm limit ... will definitely PM before my next sesh out wide. Thanks.  When out I sit on VHF 16,  BARRYCUDA or SY404 (Sierra Yankee 404) .. that's me !

Cheers Z

I can see why she is in good nick , you owned her for 24 years .  1992 they were still making them like John Heines made them before he sold them . My 2250 was one of the first he made when he started the new company. Back then she was fishing and family boat . My Grady is purely a fishing boat.

Likewise semi-retired now so we go during the week not as many idiots on the boat ramp and in the harbour in the afternoon coming back.

I think you are a bit optimistic on the fuel use, I would think two thirds . As long as you pick your days and you hold enough fuel you should be fine, if she blows earlier than forecast you come back in .

We monitor 16 ( of course) and 21, call sign SY321, always log on before heading out.

The current Grady is my second Grady 228, I sold the previous one last year when I got this.

That's my old girl, sold her in 1994.

 

 

 

 

 

[zmk1962]

On 4/23/2020 at 7:10 PM, wrxhoon1 said:

I can see why she is in good nick , you owned her for 24 years .  1992 they were still making them like John Heines made them before he sold them . My 2250 was one of the first he made when he started the new company. Back then she was fishing and family boat . My Grady is purely a fishing boat.

Likewise semi-retired now so we go during the week not as many idiots on the boat ramp and in the harbour in the afternoon coming back.

I think you are a bit optimistic on the fuel use, I would think two thirds . As long as you pick your days and you hold enough fuel you should be fine, if she blows earlier than forecast you come back in .

We monitor 16 ( of course) and 21, call sign SY321, always log on before heading out.

The current Grady is my second Grady 228, I sold the previous one last year when I got this.

That's my old girl, sold her in 1994.

Yep Haines built them pretty solid - we found it's 3/4" fibreglass a the bow when we had the toilet plumbed. I try to keep Barrycuda in good nick - but he has his battle scars which don't show in photos.  I can see a lot of similarity in the 2250's lines to the 635.  

100% agree about boating during the week - so much less stress. I'll keep an ear out for chatter from SY321.

BTW, I've sent you a PM regarding my calcs and thoughts on fuel consumption - welcome your thoughts !

Second Grady ! Nice- congrats mate. Without a doubt the Grady's are in a different league to the Haines - they are purpose built game boats built to go wide where as I feel my Haines is built to handle the occasional wide outing.

Cheers Zoran

[wrxhoon1]

To be fair my Grady is a much bigger boat and much heavier , she tips the scales well over 3t on ally trailer , depending on gear and fuel so she will handle the sea better than a smaller boat. Mine needs the 250 hp, i'm spinning a 17" prop top speed a bit over 40 knots , maybe a bit under 80 kmh on the flat and trimmed out . I like to cruise at 4000-4500 where possible as I like to get there ASAP even if I use more fuel.

I will reply to your PM.