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Rust proof (alloy?) pliers


DerekD
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Hi all,

A little problem someone might be able to help with - non rust needle nose pliers.

I have gear which gets treated very well (e.g. expensive reels which get a wipe over every time they get used) but I have other stuff which gets minimal care (e.g. bream rods or 2500 reels). That is not to say they get abused (resting on rocks, dumped on sand or in water) but as they might get used several times in a week I consider them to be a consumable rather than have the hassle of spending time after each session carefully wiping them down. My fishing knives kind of fall between the two as I want a sharp edge on them so I touch them up with a wet stone and give them a wipe over with food grade Inox.

Got a little side tracked there but I just wanted you to understand where I was coming from.

I fish from the kayak fairly frequently. Due to the confined space there are times I use the needle nose pliers to remove the hooks from some of the toothy pelagics or if there is a risk of getting a hook in me when the fish is jumping around. Every set of kayak pliers (including the stainless steel ones) I've had has rusted to a degree or another. I've been around people in the stainless and carbon steel industries long enough to work out that stainless is not rust proof (rust resistant yes) and that it can jump from carbon steel (e.g. hooks) to stainless. After a session I really don't want to spend time oiling up the pliers to make sure they don't start rusting.

Has anyone found any alloy or other material pliers which require minimal care? Preferably not the split ring ones. Length about 7 inches (175mm).

Regards,

Derek

Edited by DerekD
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36 minutes ago, dmck said:

Try surgical pliers, usually find them on ebay at very reasonable prices.  If the handles are not suitable cut them off and epoxy on plastic tubes

https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.Xsurgical+pliers.TRS0&_nkw=surgical+pliers&_sacat=0

Thank you for that. Most of those look like forceps. Does it damage your fingers if the fish is jumping around. I had a jewfish on a soft plastic once that had engulfed it. It was still reachable but I had to carefully get my hand and fingers past the teeth to do so. I wrapped my fingers in a rag but got it out and then watch the fish swim off shortly after.

PS. I love the Mustang quote in your signature. I laughed out loud.

Edited by DerekD
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I have a couple of pair of SS pliers & they have both rusted but they are still going.

Have to keep the WD/oil up to them.

When they finally bite the dust I want to get something like this 

Mustard-blue-silver.jpg.097b557498d408862f1282fe38f09dd9.jpg

And also I think some cheap grabbers like this paired with the above would do me when the others seize up

BP90016551-blue-silver.jpg.6ae8d3dad580c742a063aaeb6ab4fbbf.jpg

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10 minutes ago, kingie chaser said:

I have a couple of pair of SS pliers & they have both rusted but they are still going.

Have to keep the WD/oil up to them.

When they finally bite the dust I want to get something like this 

Mustard-blue-silver.jpg.097b557498d408862f1282fe38f09dd9.jpg

And also I think some cheap grabbers like this paired with the above would do me when the others seize up

BP90016551-blue-silver.jpg.6ae8d3dad580c742a063aaeb6ab4fbbf.jpg

I have a set of the top ones for my offshore game fishing. Haven't rusted yet - mostly because they have hardly been used. That is what I am thinking of but without the split ring tips at the end. I'm seeing Aluminium, tungsten and silicone grip ones which look promising.

I found one YoutTube clip where a guy revitalised his pliers each year using a calcium scale and rust remover (something similar available for us at Bunnings for $15). Here is the clip:

I'm thinking about it for existing ones but hoping to avoid this altogether.

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I think you will find that white vinegar will also remove rust like this but usually takes overnight.   Prob is they rust up quicly if not coated with Inox or similar. I have tried stainless pliers but disapointed with rusting up nearly as bad as normal  pliers. 

The only thing I have found that doesn't rust is an old pair of Hookout brand pliers with small jaws and handles at 90 degrees to shaft.  They live in boat and never rust and makes you wonder why nobody can make anything this good these days.  Ron 

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3 hours ago, DerekD said:

Thank you for that. Most of those look like forceps. Does it damage your fingers if the fish is jumping around. I had a jewfish on a soft plastic once that had engulfed it. It was still reachable but I had to carefully get my hand and fingers past the teeth to do so. I wrapped my fingers in a rag but got it out and then watch the fish swim off shortly after.

PS. I love the Mustang quote in your signature. I laughed out loud.

I would avoid surgical pliers/forceps - they are more for "surgical" work i.e. when fish is small and fixed/still. I borrowed mine once to a guy to release a small shark on the shore - it took him less than 3 sec to break them.

Think if you need actually pliers or hook remover on a kayak. Hook remover has much simpler and narrower and lighter design (and less chance to rust with a bit of oil service) as well as  longer length. I prefer hook remover for kayak and pliers (more functions and no salt damage)  for shore fishing.

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Hate to be the bearer of bad news but everything will rust if you don't look after it.If you can't spare the 2 seconds to wash and wipe some protecting on your gear like pliers just keep blowing money on new ones.There's 2 choices.Look after your gear or keep blowing good money after bad.

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1 hour ago, Fab1 said:

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but everything will rust if you don't look after it.If you can't spare the 2 seconds to wash and wipe some protecting on your gear like pliers just keep blowing money on new ones.There's 2 choices.Look after your gear or keep blowing good money after bad.

Hi Fab1.

I'm trying to find stuff that requires minimal care and was hoping someone had seen something. There are sufficient materials out there that suffer corrosion less. I'm trying to find something which moves away from the steel based products. For example, alloys or aircraft grade aluminium. Maybe something with bronze or brass inserts. Having a non-rust coating or plastic even if they make it rigid enough. Mostly I use it just to handle and unhook fish when it is a bit risky for my fingers, for example the jewfish which had swallowed it down the mouth far enough that it could still be reached but not so far that it was going to result in a far worse injury to the fish.

Regards,

Derek

Edited by DerekD
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1 hour ago, Lungfai76 said:

Teflon pliers, use and abuse ūüĎć

https://www.freddys.com.au/products/samaki-teflon-160mm-long-nose-plier

I use these ones, pretty good, quick wipe at end of session and haven't had them rust yet. 

Hi Lungfai,

That looks viable. Thank you for that. Will look into those.

Regards,

Derek

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31 minutes ago, DerekD said:

Hi Fab1.

I'm trying to find stuff that requires minimal care and was hoping someone had seen something. There are sufficient materials out there that suffer corrosion less. I'm trying to find something which moves away from the steel based products. For example, alloys or aircraft grade aluminium. Maybe something with bronze or brass inserts. Having a non-rust coating or plastic even if they make it rigid enough. Mostly I use it just to handle and unhook fish when it is a bit risky for my fingers, for example the jewfish which had swallowed it down the mouth far enough that it could still be reached but not so far that it was going to result in a far worse injury to the fish.

Regards,

Derek

Fair enough mate.Good luck on your quest.

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2 hours ago, Fab1 said:

Hate to be the bearer of bad news but everything will rust if you don't look after it.If you can't spare the 2 seconds to wash and wipe some protecting on your gear like pliers just keep blowing money on new ones.There's 2 choices.Look after your gear or keep blowing good money after bad.

I've got to agree with you there, without care it will rust. I think if you spend enough $$$ on quality gear you'll be forced to look after you gear.  All the pliers I have don't have any rust and are doing ok, just a quick rinse and I only oil if it needs it.

I currently use the Shimano pliers for offshore fishing and works well removing hooks, probably not great if its deep inside the mouth. While the thickness gauge is good, it still will twist occasionally when the hooks are difficulty to budge. But then its primary design is for split rings so I can't fault it. Other option is I sometimes try removing the hook going in via the gills, not great but I think its better for the fish to suffer a little than be stuck with a hook in its mouth.

If I ever need a new pair or pliers I would consider purchasing the large pair made by Palms. These look thick and sturdy. Mind you these are all what I consider expensive JDM gear, so you will be forced to look after them.

Having said all this I currently use a cheap aluminium pair right now on my yak. Why? Because I bought it ages ago and had it lying around and I figured I might loose them eventually, even though they are tethered. 

The samiki teflon pliers gauge looks thin and probably would twist easily if the hooks are difficult to remove.

Happy plier hunting

Edited by whiskey299
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1 hour ago, whiskey299 said:

The samiki teflon pliers gauge looks thin and probably would twist easily if the hooks are difficult to remove.

Hence the use and abuse, these pliers have lasted so far from the abuse I've put them through while on the Yak. They've gone in the drink, fallen off and bounced around while loading yak onto fourby and been dragged along when dragging the Yak to launch. The dragging caused some teflon damage but other than that they still operate and rust has not shown up yet. For the price they punch well above their weight. 

My $100 Gerber sits in the garage, I'm afraid to use them as I am absolutely sure I'll trash them while yakking ūüėā

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27 minutes ago, Lungfai76 said:

Hence the use and abuse, these pliers have lasted so far from the abuse I've put them through while on the Yak. They've gone in the drink, fallen off and bounced around while loading yak onto fourby and been dragged along when dragging the Yak to launch. The dragging caused some teflon damage but other than that they still operate and rust has not shown up yet. For the price they punch well above their weight. 

My $100 Gerber sits in the garage, I'm afraid to use them as I am absolutely sure I'll trash them while yakking ūüėā

Thanks Lungfai,

I've just ordered some online and looking forward to giving them some testing when they turn up.

Regards,

Derek

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Derk-i reckon youve got it a!@#e about-buy the cheapest pliers you can , spray them with a bit of Inox here and there and throw them away when they die-in my boat i typically get 5 or so years out of a pair of pliers before they die- expensive stuff doesnt last any longer and if you drop them over the side (which happens) you wont lose any sleep over the loss.

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i have a pair of frichy pliers and they are indestructible. Been submerged in water, dropped, stepped on, the lot 

They are expensive but worth it in my opinion. Made from aluminium, have a tungsten cutter with some other models having split rings, lead crimps etc

Edited by Restyle
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Bit late to this one @DerekD.

Pretty sure I have had these stainless Surecatch 11in pliers for over 10yrs. Fully working today and they probably set me back $20.

image.png.46bddc1c831b846d54baa9317306f671.png

image.png.6d52e32c197a1970e634bb64c5928f97.png

image.png.017119bf3f9bc14a36997b0a7e232c39.png

It's kind of counter intuitive, but the thing to remember with stainless steel is that the CLEANER you keep it the less rust will form. So if you want no rust apply MINIMUM lubricant to just the pivot joint, and keep any lubricant or protective coating off everything else.

This is to do with the chemistry and molecular structure at the surface level. Stainless Steel by definition has at least 10% chromium, the rest of the alloy is mostly steel (iron) with traces of other metals. The shiny surface of ss steel is actually Chromium rust (chromium trioxide CrO3) which forms as a thin layer every time you scrape the surface. The molecular structure of Cr03 prevents any further Oxygen atom penetrating and attaching to the surrounding iron atoms to form rust.  However, if CrO3 can't be formed, say at an edge, where the plastic handle meets the ss steel, or oil or crap covers part of the surface, than at that edge we only have Cr02 and surrounding iron atoms are exposed and form the rust you see. 

So the best way to keep your ss steel rust free is to keep it absolutely spotless clean.

Think of your ss cutlery in the dishwasher. You only get rust stains on the ones that have bits of unwashed crap. The unwashed crap is acting as a protective coating preventing full CrO3 formation at the surface.

My pliers above, get washed in fresh water and are left to dry. I am not as diligent as I should be with the jaw area and this usually has so fish slime crap ... hence the rust.   I do occasionally squirt some inox to lubricate the pivot. There is very little you can do to prevent the rust at the handle edge - but you have probably seen that rust line on your favourite knives as well where the plastic handle joins the blade.

I have a stainless steel bimini frame. I get rust stains forming where folks have been holding on - especially if they have had suntan lotion on their hands. Quick wipe with soapy water removes the oil film, and stainless wool re-exposes the Chromium to oxygen and all is good.

Anyway, hope that helps.

Cheers Zoran

 

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Worst of the problem being the stainless steel used in inferior Chinese tools is not 316 grade more chrome and nickel which makes it less resistant to corrosion still needs to be mirror polished and looked after. The smoother it is less spots for corrosion to build up. 

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I have a pair of Kato fishing pliers  that look almost exactly like  those mustard split ring ones (but no split ring tip).

The jaws and the cutters are replaceable (unscrew with allen key)

About 20cm long in total

 

They are great, I can't find them online anymore for you thought... 

20200412_192712.jpg

Edited by SquidMarks
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With standard cheap pliers I use vaso when rust first shows wash with turps dry and apply vasso the turps thins it and makes it like penetrating oil. a reapplication of vasso now and then works a treat. Looks rusty works better than my joints. Also rag it over the whole surface. Rusty patina look but not rusty.

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3 hours ago, SquidMarks said:

I have a pair of Kato fishing pliers  that look almost exactly like  those mustard split ring ones (but no split ring tip).

The jaws and the cutters are replaceable (unscrew with allen key)

About 20cm long in total

 

They are great, I can't find them online anymore for you thought... 

20200412_192712.jpg

That was kind of what I had in mind when I started the search. Most these days have the split ring part at the end.

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On ‚Äé4‚Äé/‚Äé11‚Äé/‚Äé2020 at 5:46 PM, Lungfai76 said:

Teflon pliers, use and abuse ūüĎć

https://www.freddys.com.au/products/samaki-teflon-160mm-long-nose-plier

I use these ones, pretty good, quick wipe at end of session and haven't had them rust yet. 

Hi Lungfai,

Pliers have arrived. Looks pretty interesting with the Teflon coating. Plan on taking them on my next kayak trip.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Regards,

Derek

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