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Making Deep Drop Sinkers


zmk1962

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Hey Raiders,

This topic has come up a couple of times, and I have written on this previously in different posts - so I thought I'd consolidate the discussion here.

Ok in deep dropping, we are fishing waters around 500m deep with essentially paternoster rigs. So if you can drop vertically you will have  500m of line out, a few degrees off vertical and you easily start to have 550 - 600 - 700m of line out. Bite sensitivity drops and the chance of snagging increases. 

From my experience the ideal weights for my rigs are around 2kg and cylindrical - so that they don't spin too much on the drop and retrieve.  Also the more dense the material the smaller the sinker so it imparts less drag in current and drift. Lead is an ideal material but it's expensive.

For me, the next best is to use window sash weights which are typically cast iron - usually recovered from demolition and reno building sites. ... and it's excellent if you have a buddy in the building game that's also a fisherman ( Thanks Dieter @61 crusher)

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Sash weight come in different weights, lengths and diameters. I cut them down to approx 2kg, tie a loop at one end from fencing or coat hanger wire for quick attachment to a snap swivel, and then spray them with a rust inhibitor (retards the flaking rust and keeps the boat cleaner).

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I also tack weld the off cuts together ... and salvage a few more sinkers...

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If I can't get my hands on sash weights, I fabricate sinkers  from reo -bars. 

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I have heard of people using house bricks, or filling cans with concrete, but although they would eventually get you to the bottom,  I think they would not be  dense enough to give you a vertical drop and would also contribute to drag. Rectangular or odd shapes would also spin  and contribute to line tangles.

Here's a screen grab from underwater footage of Browns Mnt which shows a brick on the bottom..ffwd to 7:34.

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And the full video

Cheers Zoran

 

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Edited by zmk1962
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We don't see as many sash weights on building sites anymore.  I do have 4 or 5 you are welcome to.  I have only removed windows with lead sash weights once in 30 years mostly they are cast. 

If you make them from Lead do you have a mould for them?

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Hey Jason, thanks so much - we'll have to sort out a pickup/transfer of goods ... the price of donating sash weights to barrycuda is that you have to go deep dropping ... so be careful if that's not what you wish for 🤙 .

I have never used lead for deep dropping so don't have a mold.  I think most folks just fill up a coke or V can . From memory @wrxhoon1 mentioned he has used lead weights maybe he can comment.

Cheers Zoran

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1 hour ago, zmk1962 said:

Hey Jason, thanks so much - we'll have to sort out a pickup/transfer of goods ... the price of donating sash weights to barrycuda is that you have to go deep dropping ... so be careful if that's not what you wish for 🤙 .

I have never used lead for deep dropping so don't have a mold.  I think most folks just fill up a coke or V can . From memory @wrxhoon1 mentioned he has used lead weights maybe he can comment.

Cheers Zoran

Your terms sound punishing 🤣

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Over the many years deep dropping and trying all kinds of weights, I came to the conclusion that lead is best (  mercury would be even better) for me. It's density is about 11.3 , steel about 8. 

I have used thick reo (32-40mm) left over from building and some sash weights , they work well but I hate the fact that they rust so you have to coat them.

Years ago after trying different shapes, I realised a long and pointy sinker works best but couldn't find a mould. I bought some aluminium, joint to slabs together then drilled a whole the size needed on a lathe . 

I pour lead in the mould and put a S/S chain link on the top . No rust and they go down very quick.

I have bought mould as well but a lot shorter and not round.

This is the end result, about 250 mm long and about 32 mm diameter.

 

 

Lead sinkers.jpg

lead sinkers 1.jpg

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I have a home made mould here somewhere, if I can find it I will take a picture of it, getting lead is not easy these days either. Way back in the "old days" we just used bricks and tied them on with thin (ish) line, the theory being the brick broke off so you didn't have to wind/pull it up, the downside is a box of bricks in the boat at the start! We also mainly hand lined, using about 6-8mm cord, if you got a snag you just tied it off and drifted or drove off to break the mono "rig" rather than lose the lot, it was not as hard work as you might think, and certainly easier than an Alvey, you certainly haven't lived until you have had a "run" on cord line.....

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I just want to catch a 2 kilo fish Z.Bugger the sinkers for now.😂

Someone was saying to make sure you keep the moulds hot at all times.

Bring them to my work and I'll ensure they stay warm for your pour.

 We have pretty good respirators here too.Some Helmuts worth 3k.It's weird no one complains it's cold here and when it's 40 deg Celsius outside no one bats an eyelid.🤣😂

images (2).jpeg

Love your work Z.

Edited by Fab1
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