replacing a rod guide and butt

[slothparade]

I picked up a pretty beaten up rod from the side of the road. It was missing the butt and 1 guide. I have replaced the butt with a champange cork which worked well. How do I change the missing guide, I was going to get a fuji guide from ebay?

Questions

1. how big should I get 

2. do I need to buy special thread or can i use sewing thread?

3. Do I need to take the resin off and how?

4. can I put any resin over the thread around the new guide?

5. If i want to repaint the rod, how? 

[wazatherfisherman]

Hi Slothparade  1) decent quality guides have a very small number on the leg like 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 25 and are their sizes and refer to the guide's ring diameter. It would be helpful to post a picture of the rod showing the missing guide and guides either side of it. If you think it is the last guide towards the tip or butt let us know with a photo if possible.

2) Binding thread is much stronger, far more UV proof and relatively inexpensive for the small sized spool. When looking to buy some you want "C" or "D' size for most applications on saltwater rods. Black is pretty common as an over-bind and should give you good all around use. 

3) When removing old guides, use a razor blade (one sided!) and cut the thread along the remains of the guide that was there or gently cut along the length of the rod ray=ther than down onto the blank. You don't need to cut all the old thread off usually because it will peel off with you 'unwinding' it. If totally coated you can try nail polish remover to soften it if you're having difficulty, but usually just the blade will remove both thread and remaining sealer/epoxy.

4) Bind towards the guide and up over it, a good trick is to use a thin type of cello-tape (clear!) to lock your thread down and simply bind over it and up the guide leg. You need to seal the thread when finished with some type of thread sealer or rod 'filler' which preserves colour, locks the tread down and leaves a protective coating over the top of the thread. If just using thread sealer/filler apply several coats and it's best not to use it on days of high humidity. Epoxy resin over the top if you want long lasting result.

5) Not that necessary usually to repaint a rod unless the blank is perishing and fibres becoming exposed. Wouldn't bother usually

Hope this is helpful

Waza

[noelm]

Alternatively you could just take the rod to a proper tackle store, they can replace a guide quite reasonably priced (if the rod is worth it) and saves you buying all the stuff needed. Doing it yourself is not that hard, as outlined above, and can be rewarding doing it yourself, but if you are never going to do it again, a tackle store is worth it.

[slothparade]

1 hour ago, noelm said:

Alternatively you could just take the rod to a proper tackle store, they can replace a guide quite reasonably priced (if the rod is worth it) and saves you buying all the stuff needed. Doing it yourself is not that hard, as outlined above, and can be rewarding doing it yourself, but if you are never going to do it again, a tackle store is worth it.

I just got this rod to pull down to a blank to practice on because if I break it, it was free anyway. I would like to eventually custom make a game rod so all the practice will be helpful. 

[slothparade]

[slothparade]

7 hours ago, wazatherfisherman said:

Hi Slothparade  1) decent quality guides have a very small number on the leg like 8, 10, 12, 16, 20, 25 and are their sizes and refer to the guide's ring diameter. It would be helpful to post a picture of the rod showing the missing guide and guides either side of it. If you think it is the last guide towards the tip or butt let us know with a photo if possible.

2) Binding thread is much stronger, far more UV proof and relatively inexpensive for the small sized spool. When looking to buy some you want "C" or "D' size for most applications on saltwater rods. Black is pretty common as an over-bind and should give you good all around use. 

3) When removing old guides, use a razor blade (one sided!) and cut the thread along the remains of the guide that was there or gently cut along the length of the rod ray=ther than down onto the blank. You don't need to cut all the old thread off usually because it will peel off with you 'unwinding' it. If totally coated you can try nail polish remover to soften it if you're having difficulty, but usually just the blade will remove both thread and remaining sealer/epoxy.

4) Bind towards the guide and up over it, a good trick is to use a thin type of cello-tape (clear!) to lock your thread down and simply bind over it and up the guide leg. You need to seal the thread when finished with some type of thread sealer or rod 'filler' which preserves colour, locks the tread down and leaves a protective coating over the top of the thread. If just using thread sealer/filler apply several coats and it's best not to use it on days of high humidity. Epoxy resin over the top if you want long lasting result.

5) Not that necessary usually to repaint a rod unless the blank is perishing and fibres becoming exposed. Wouldn't bother usually

Hope this is helpful

Waza

 

2 hours ago, noelm said:

Alternatively you could just take the rod to a proper tackle store, they can replace a guide quite reasonably priced (if the rod is worth it) and saves you buying all the stuff needed. Doing it yourself is not that hard, as outlined above, and can be rewarding doing it yourself, but if you are never going to do it again, a tackle store is worth it.

I have posted some pictures below. thanks for the help 

[slothparade]

[wazatherfisherman]

Hi again just wanted to let you know that although the cork looks OK and feels comfortable, due to it being a load bearing point of your rod, it won't be strong enough to withstand breaking.

Just a suggestion- you can buy various chair leg caps from most hardware stores or find one on a throw-out piece of furniture which can go over the outside of the butt instead. They'll fit well over the black grip and provide you with a long lasting and more comfortable butt.

Looks like all the guides need re-doing and you might find those type hard to find as they've been out of production for a long time. 

[dazamcstaga]

1 hour ago, wazatherfisherman said:

Hi again just wanted to let you know that although the cork looks OK and feels comfortable, due to it being a load bearing point of your rod, it won't be strong enough to withstand breaking.

Just a suggestion- you can buy various chair leg caps from most hardware stores or find one on a throw-out piece of furniture which can go over the outside of the butt instead. They'll fit well over the black grip and provide you with a long lasting and more comfortable butt.

Looks like all the guides need re-doing and you might find those type hard to find as they've been out of production for a long time. 

+1

[slothparade]

2 hours ago, wazatherfisherman said:

Hi again just wanted to let you know that although the cork looks OK and feels comfortable, due to it being a load bearing point of your rod, it won't be strong enough to withstand breaking.

Just a suggestion- you can buy various chair leg caps from most hardware stores or find one on a throw-out piece of furniture which can go over the outside of the butt instead. They'll fit well over the black grip and provide you with a long lasting and more comfortable butt.

Looks like all the guides need re-doing and you might find those type hard to find as they've been out of production for a long time. 

Please correct me if i'm wrong but because the cork had been drilled out and the blank has been inserted into the cork, id have thought it would be strong enough, but pls feel ok to correct 

[slothparade]

[noelm]

Cork will work, but being so soft it will just fall to bits or break, rubber/plastic caps as suggested are what's normally used, just buy one that is about the right size, then get masking tape and wind it around the blank to make it a snug fit, then use Araldite to glue it on, job done, and that's how the pros do it.

[wazatherfisherman]

Hi Slothparade like Noelm says above- the cork will work but won't last long, if you have a close look at most cork butts they either have an insert of something harder on the end or in fact a cap/button of some type, otherwise every time you put the rod down you're causing wear on the cork and it simply won't last. 

Most hardware or furniture shops would have a cap and they're cheap items to buy, then fix like Noelm says above- masking tape and Araldite